Andersson, Charles John (1856): Lake Ngami; or, Explorations and Discoveries, during Four Years Wanderings in the Wilds of South Western Africa, New York & London 1856

Re-published as eBook by ‘The Project Gutenberg’ in 2024

.

“CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Sweden.—Day-dreams.—Fraternal Love.—A tempting Offer.—Preparations for Journey to Africa.—Departure from England.—Arrival at the Cape.—Town and Inhabitants.—Table Mountain.—Curious Legend.—Preparation for Journey into the Interior.—Departure for Walfisch Bay Page 19

CHAPTER II.

Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—Scenery.—Harbor described.—Want of Water.—Capabilities for Trade.—Fish.—Wild-fowl.—Mirage.—Sand Fountain.—The Bush-tick.—The Naras.—Quadrupeds scarce.—Meeting the Hottentots.—Their filthy Habits.—The Alarum.—The Turn-out.—Death of a Lion.—Arrival at Scheppmansdorf.—The Place described.—Mr. Bam.—Missionary Life.—Ingratitude of Natives.—Missionary Wagons 29

CHAPTER III.

Preparations for Journey.—Breaking-in Oxen.—Departure from Scheppmansdorf.—An infuriated Ox.—The Naarip Plain.—The scarlet Flower.—The Usab Gorge.—The Swakop River.—Tracks of Rhinoceros seen.—Anecdote of that Animal.—A Sunrise in the Tropics.—Sufferings from Heat and Thirst.—Arrival at Daviep: great resort of Lions.—A Horse and Mule killed by them.—The Author goes in pursuit.—A troop of Lions.—Unsuccessful Chase.—Mules’ flesh palatable 44

CHAPTER IV.

The Gnoo and the Gemsbok.—Pursuit of a Rhinoceros.—Venomous Fly.—Fruit of the Acacia nutritious.—Sun-stroke.—Crested Parrot.—A Giraffe shot.—Tjobis Fountain.—Singular Omelet.—Nutritious Gum.—Arrival at Richterfeldt.—Mr. Rath and the Missions.—The Damaras: their Persons, Habits, &c.—Lions Troublesome.—Panic.—Horse Sickness 56

CHAPTER V.

Hans Larsen.—His Exploits.—He joins the Expedition.—How people travel on Ox-back.—Rhinoceros Hunt.—Death of the Beast.—“Look before you Leap.”—Anecdote proving the Truth of the Proverb.—Hans and the Lion.—The Doctor in Difficulties.—Sufferings on the Naarip Plain.—Arrival at Scheppmansdorf 68

CHAPTER VI.

Return to Scheppmansdorf.—Training Oxen for the Yoke.—Sporting.—The Flamingo.—The Butcher-bird: curious Superstition regarding it.—Preparing for Journey.—Servants described 76

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Scheppmansdorf.—Cattle refractory at starting.—Tincas.—Always travel by Night.—Rhinoceros Hunt.—The Author in danger of a second Sun-stroke.—Reach Onanis.—A Tribe of Hill-Damaras settled there.—Singular Manner in which these People smoke.—Effects of the Weed.—The Euphorbia Candelabrum.—Remarkable Properties of this vegetable Poison.—Guinea-fowl: the best Manner of shooting them.—Meet a troop of Giraffes.—Tjobis Fountain again.—Attacked by Lions.—Providential Escape.—Arrival at Richterfeldt 83

CHAPTER VIII.

A hearty Welcome.—We remove the Encampment.—An Apparition.—Audacity of wild Beasts.—Depriving Lions of their Prey.—Excessive Heat.—Singular effects of great Heat.—Depart for Barmen.—Meet a troop of Zebras.—Their flesh not equal to Venison.—The Missionary’s Wall.—A sad Catastrophe.—The “Kameel-Doorn.”—Buxton Fountain.—The Scorpion.—Arrival at Barmen 95

CHAPTER IX.

Barmen.—Thunder-storm in the Tropics.—A Man killed by Lightning.—Warm Spring.—Mr. Hahn: his Missionary Labor; Seed sown in exceeding stony Ground.—The Lake Omanbondè.—Mr. Galton’s Mission of Peace.—The Author meets a Lion by the way; the Beast bolts.—Singular Chase of a Gnoo.—“Killing two Birds with one Stone.”—A Lion Hunt.—The Author escapes Death by a Miracle.—Consequences of shooting on a Sunday 106

CHAPTER X.

A Christmas in the Desert.—Mr. Galton’s Return from the Erongo Mountain.—He passes numerous Villages.—Great Drought; the Natives have a Choice of two Evils.—The Hill-Damaras.—The Damaras a Pastoral People.—The whole country Public Property.—Enormous herds of Cattle.—They are as destructive as Locusts to the Vegetation.—Departure from Richterfeldt.—The Author kills an Oryx.—The Oxen refractory.—Danger of traversing dry Water-courses on the approach of the Rainy Season.—Message from the Robber-chief Jonker.—Emeute among the Servants.—Depart for Schmelen’s Hope 119

CHAPTER XI.

Schmelen’s Hope.—Scenery.—Missionary Station.—Raid of the Namaquas.—Ingratitude of the Natives.—Jonker’s Feud with Kahichenè; his Barbarities; his Treachery.—Mr. Galton departs for Eikams.—Author’s successful sporting Excursions.—He captures a young Steinbok and a Koodoo.—They are easily domesticated.—Hyænas very troublesome; several destroyed by Spring-guns.—The latter described.—Visit from a Leopard; it wounds a Dog; Chase and Death of the Leopard.—The Caracal 126

CHAPTER XII.

Wild-fowl abundant.—The Great Bustard.—The Termites.—Wild Bees.—Mushrooms.—The Chief Zwartbooi.—Return of Mr. Galton.—He makes a Treaty with Jonker.—He visits Rehoboth.—Misdoings of John Waggoner and Gabriel.—Change of Servants.—Swarm of Caterpillars.—A reconnoitring Expedition.—Thunder-storm.—The Omatako Mountains.—Zebra-flesh a God-send.—Tropical Phenomenon.—The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity.—Encamp in an Ant-hill.—Return to Schmelen’s Hope.—Preparations for visiting Omanbondè 135

CHAPTER XIII.

Depart from Schmelen’s Hope.—Meeting with Kahichenè.—Oxen Stolen.—Summary Justice.—Superstition.—Meeting an old Friend.—Singular Custom.—Gluttony of the Damaras.—How they eat Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound.—Superstitious Custom.—A nondescript Animal.—The Author loses his Way.—Ravages of the Termites.—“Wait a bit, if you please.”—Magnificent Fountain.—Remains of Damara Villages.—Horrors of War.—Meet[x] Bushmen.—Meet Damaras.—Difficulties encountered by African Travelers.—Reach the Lake Omanbondè.—Cruel Disappointment 146

CHAPTER XIV.

Omanbondè visited by Hippopotami.—Vegetation, &c., described.—Game somewhat scarce.—Combat between Elephant and Rhinoceros.—Advance or Retreat.—Favorable reports of the Ovambo-land.—Resolve to proceed there.—Reconnoitre the Country.—Depart from Omanbondè.—Author shoots a Giraffe.—Splendid Mirage.—The Fan-palm.—The Guide absconds.—Commotion among the Natives.—Arrive at Okamabuti.—Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt.—Vegetation.—Accident to Wagon.—Obliged to proceed on Ox-back.—The Party go astray.—Baboon Fountain.—Meeting with the Ovambo; their personal Appearance, &c.—Return to Encampment.—An Elephant killed.—Discover a curious Plant.—Immorality.—Reflections 162

CHAPTER XV.

Depart from Okamabuti.—Visit from a Lion.—Amulets.—Revisit Baboon Fountain.—Otjikoto; a wonderful Freak of Nature; Remarkable Cavern.—Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swimming.—Fish abundant in Otjikoto; frequented by immense Flocks of Doves.—Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing.—Arrive at Omutjamatunda.—A greasy Welcome.—Ducks and Grouse numerous.—Author finds himself somewhat “overdone.”—“Salt-pans.”—All “look Blue.”—A second Paradise.—Hospitable Reception.—Vegetation.—People live in Patriarchal Style.—Population.—Enormous Hogs.—Arrive at the Residence of the redoubtable Nangoro 178

CHAPTER XVI.

Visit from Nangoro.—His extreme Obesity.—One must be fat to wear a Crown.—His non-appreciation of Eloquence.—Singular Effects of Fireworks on the Natives.—Cure for making a wry Face.—Ball at the Palace.—The Ladies very attractive and very loving.—Their Dress, Ornaments, &c.—Honesty of the Ovambo.—Kindness to the Poor.—Love of Country.—Hospitality.—Delicate manner of Eating.—Loose Morals.—Law of Succession.—Religion.—Houses.—Domestic Animals.—Implements of Husbandry.—Manner of Tilling the Ground.—Articles of Barter.—Metallurgy 190

CHAPTER XVII.

The River Cunenè.—The Travelers are Prisoners at large.—Kingly Revenge.—Kingly Liberality.—Depart from Ondonga.—Sufferings and Consequences resulting from Cold.—Return to Okamabuti.—Damara Women murdered by Bushmen.—Preparations for Journey.—Obtain Guides.—Depart from Tjopopa’s Werft.—Game abundant.—Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company.—Extraordinary Visitation.—The Rhinoceros’s Guardian Angel.—The Textor Erythrorhynchus.—The Amadina Squamifrons; singular Construction of its Nest.—Return to Barmen 201

CHAPTER XVIII.

The Damaras.—Whence they came.—Their Conquests.—The Tide turns.—Damara-land only partially inhabited.—Climate.—Seasons.—Mythology.—Religion.—Superstitions.—Marriage.—Polygamy.—Children.—Circumcision.—Bury their Dead.—Way they mourn.—Children interred alive.—Burial of the Chief, and Superstitions consequent thereon.—Maladies.—Damaras do not live long; the Cause thereof.—Food.—Music and Dancing.—How they swear.—Power of the Chieftain limited.—Slothful People.—Numerals.—Astronomy.—Domestic Animals; their Diseases 214

CHAPTER XIX.

Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town.—Depart from Barmen.—Eikhams.—Eyebrecht.—Depart from Eikhams.—Elephant Fountain.—Tunobis.—Enormous quantities of Game.—Shooting by Night at the “Skarm.”—The Author has several narrow Escapes.—Checked in attempt to reach the Ngami.—The Party set out on their Return.—Reach Elephant Fountain.—How to make Soap.—Pitfalls.—A night Adventure.—Game scarce.—Join Hans.—The Party nearly poisoned.—Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—A tub Adventure.—Extraordinary Mortality among the Fish.—Author narrowly escapes Drowning.—Arrival of the Missionary Vessel.—Letters from Home.—Mr. Galton returns to Europe.—Reflections 229

CHAPTER XX.

Capture of young Ostriches.—Natural History of the Ostrich; where found; Description of; Size; Weight; Age; Voice; Strength; Speed; Food; Water; Breeding; Incubation; Cunning; Stones found in Eggs; Chicks; Flesh.—Brain in request among the Romans.—Eggs highly prized.—Uses of Egg-shells.—Feathers an article[xii] of Commerce.—Ostrich Parasols.—The Bird’s destructive Propensities.—Habits.—Resembles Quadrupeds.—Domestication.—The Chase.—Snares.—Ingenious Device.—Enemies of the Ostrich 247

CHAPTER XXI.

Sudden Floods.—John Allen’s Sufferings.—Hans and the Author enter into Partnership.—Young Grass injurious to Cattle.—Depart from Walfisch Bay.—Attractive Scenery.—Troops of Lions.—Extraordinary Proceedings of Kites.—Flight of Butterflies.—Attachment of Animals to one another.—Arrival at Richterfeldt; at Barmen.—Hans’s narrow Escape.—Self-possession.—Heavy Rains.—Runaway Ox; he tosses the Author.—Depart from Barmen.—Difficulty of crossing Rivers.—Encounter great numbers of Oryxes 264

CHAPTER XXII.

The Oryx; more than one Species.—Where found.—Probably known in Europe previous to the discovery of the Passage round the Cape of Good Hope.—Description of the Oryx.—Gregarious.—Speed.—Food.—Water not necessary to its existence.—Will face the Lion.—Formidable Horns.—Their Use.—Flesh.—The Chase of this Animal 272

CHAPTER XXIII.

Arrival at Eikhams.—Native Dogs; cruelly treated.—Jonker Afrikaner.—The Author visits the Red Nation; the bad Repute of these People.—The Author attacked by Ophthalmia.—The embryo Locust.—The “flying” Locust; its Devastations.—The Locust-bird.—Arrival at Rehoboth; the Place described 277

CHAPTER XXIV.

Return to Eikhams.—Ugly Fall.—Splendid Landscape.—Jonker’s Delinquencies.—How to manage the Natives.—The Ondara.—It kills a Man.—How his Comrade revenges him.—Medical Properties of the Ondara.—The Cockatrice.—The Cobra di Capella.—The Puff-adder.—The Spitting Snake.—The Black Snake.—Few Deaths caused by Snakes.—Antidotes for Snake-bites.—Return to Rehoboth 287

CHAPTER XXV.

The Author’s Tent takes Fire.—He loses every thing but his Papers.—He is laid on a bed of Sickness.—Want of Medicine, &c.—Reflections.—Whole Villages infected with Fever.—Abundance of[xiii] Game.—Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich.—A Lion breakfasts on his Wife.—Wonderful shooting Star.—Remarkable Mirage.—Game and Lions plentiful.—The Ebony-tree.—Arrival at Bethany, a Missionary Station.—The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle.—A thirsty Man’s Cogitation.—Curious Superstition.—The Damara Cattle described.—People who live entirely without Water.—Cross the Orange River.—Sterile Country 299

CHAPTER XXVI.

Great Namaqua-land.—Its Boundaries and Extent.—Its Rivers.—Nature of the Country.—Vegetation and Climate.—Geological Structure.—Minerals.—“Topnaars” and “Oerlams.”—Houses.—Mythology and Religion.—Tumuli.—Wonderful Rock.—Curious Legend of the Hare.—Coming of Age.—The Witch-doctor.—Amulets.—Superstitions.—A Namaqua’s notion of the Sun.—Marriage.—Polygamy.—Children.—Barbarous Practice.—Longevity.—Singular Customs.—Ornaments.—Tattooing.—Arms.—Idle Habits.—Fond of Amusements.—Music and Dancing.—Spirits.—Mead.—Domestic Animals 311

CHAPTER XXVII.

Leave the Orange River.—Arrival at Komaggas.—Gardening and Agriculture.—The Author starts alone for the Cape.—Colony Horses.—Enmity of the Boers to “Britishers.”—Dutch Salutation.—The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no.—He arrives at Cape-Town.—Cuts a sorry figure.—Is run away with.—A Feast of Oranges.—Ghost Stories.—Cattle Auction.—Hans and John Allen proceed to Australia.—Preparations for Journey to the Ngami.—Departure from the Cape 325

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Arrival at Walfisch Bay.—Atrocities of the Namaquas.—Mr. Hahn.—His Philanthropy.—Author departs for Richterfeldt.—Shoots a Lion.—Lions unusually numerous.—Piet’s Performances with Lions.—The Lion a Church-goer.—Barmen.—Eikhams.—Kamapyu’s mad Doings and Consequences thereof.—Kamapyu is wounded by other Shafts than Cupid’s.—Author visits Cornelius; here he meets Amral and a party of Griqua Elephant-hunters.—Reach Rehoboth.—Tan’s Mountain.—Copper Ore.—Jonathan Afrika.—A Lion sups on a Goat.—A Lion besieges the Cattle 339

CHAPTER XXIX.

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape.—Terrible Thunder-storm.—Trees struck by Lightning.—The Nosop River.—A Comet.—The Author nearly poisoned.—Some of the Men abscond; they return to their Duty.—Babel-like confusion of Tongues.—Game abundant.—Author shoots a Giraffe.—Meet Bushmen.—Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt.—Sufferings from Hunger.—Tunobis.—Game scarce.—Author and Steed entrapped.—Pitfalls.—The Men turn sulky.—Preparations for departure from Tunobis.—Vicious Pack-oxen.—Consequences of excessive Fatigue.—The Jackal’s handiwork.—Tracks of Elephants.—More Pitfalls.—Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross.—Reach Ghanzé 351

CHAPTER XXX.

Ghanzé.—Spotted Hyæna.—The Rhinoceros.—Where found.—Several Species.—Description of Rhinoceros.—Size.—Appearance.—Age.—Strength.—Speed.—Food.—Water.—The Young.—Affection.—Senses.—Disposition.—Gregarious.—Indolence.—Domestication.—Flesh.—Horns.—The Chase.—Mr. Oswell’s Adventures with Rhinoceroses.—A Crotchet.—Where to aim at the Rhinoceros.—Does not bleed externally when wounded.—Great numbers slain annually 368

CHAPTER XXXI.

Departure from Ghanzé.—Nectar in the Desert.—Difficulty in finding Water.—Arrive at Abeghan.—Unsuccessful Chase.—A “Charm.”—How to make the undrinkable drinkable.—An Elephant wounded and killed.—Bold and courageous Dog.—Kobis.—Author seized with a singular Malady.—Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the Lake Ngami.—A large troop of Elephants.—Author kills a huge Male.—Lions and Giraffe.—Author’s hair-breadth Escapes: from a black Rhinoceros; from a white Rhinoceros; from two troops of Elephants; he shoots a couple of his Adversaries.—Where to aim at an Elephant 386

CHAPTER XXXII.

Timbo’s Return from the Lake; his Logic; he takes the Law in his own Hands.—Calf of Author’s Leg goes astray.—A troop of Elephants.—Author is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes Death.—He shoots a white Rhinoceros.—He disables a black Rhinoceros.—He is charged and desperately bruised and wounded by[xv] the latter.—He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu.—Author again charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only by the opportune Death of his Antagonist.—Reflections.—He starts for the Ngami 402

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Start from Kobis.—Meet Bechuanas.—False Report.—Wonderful Race of Men.—The Baobob-tree.—The Ngami.—First Impressions of the Lake.—Reflections.—Experience some Disappointment.—Reach the Zouga River and encamp near it.—Interview with Chief Lecholètébè.—Information refused.—Immoderate Laughter.—Presents to the Chief.—His Covetousness.—His Cruelty.—Formidable Difficulties.—Author permitted to proceed northward 413

CHAPTER XXXIV.

The Ngami.—When discovered.—Its various Names.—Its Size and Form.—Great Changes in its Waters.—Singular Phenomenon.—The Teoge River.—The Zouga River.—The Mukuru-Mukovanja River.—Animals.—Birds.—Crocodiles.—Serpents.—Fish 423

CHAPTER XXXV.

The Batoana.—Government.—Eloquence.—Language.—Mythology.—Religion.—Superstition.—The Rain-maker.—Polygamy.—Circumcision.—Burial.—Disposition of the Bechuanas.—Thievish Propensities.—Dress.—Great Snuff-takers.—Smoking.—Occupations.—Agriculture.—Commerce.—Hunting and Fishing 436

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Departure for Libèbé.—The Canoe.—The Lake.—Reach the Teoge.—Adventure with a Leché.—Luxurious Vegetation.—Exuberance of animal Life.—Buffaloes.—The Koodoo.—His Haunts.—Pace.—Food.—Flesh.—Hide.—Disposition.—Gregarious Habits.—The Chase 456

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Tsetse Fly.—Confined to particular Spots.—Its Size.—Its Destructiveness.—Fatal to Domestic Animals.—Symptoms in the Ox when bitten by the Tsetse 468

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

The Crocodile.—An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters.—The Omoroanga Vavarra River.—Hardships.—Beautiful Scenery.—Lecholètébè’s Treachery.—The Reed-ferry 471

CHAPTER XXXIX.

The Bayeye.—Their Country; Persons; Language; Disposition; Lying and Pilfering Habits.—Polygamy practiced among the Bayeye.—Their Houses; Dress; Ornaments; Weapons; Liquors; Agriculture; Grain; Fruits; Granaries.—Hunting.—Fishing.—Nets.—Diseases.—The Matsanyana.—The Bavicko.—Libèbé 476

CHAPTER XL.

Departure from the Bayeye Werft.—The Reed-raft.—The Hippopotamus.—Behemoth or Hippopotamus.—Where found.—Two Species.—Description of Hippopotamus.—Appearance.—Size.—Swims like a Duck.—Food.—Destructive Propensities of the Animal.—Disposition.—Sagacity.—Memory.—Gregarious Habits.—Nocturnal Habits.—Domestication.—Food.—Flesh.—Hide.—Ivory.—Medicinal Virtues 485

CHAPTER XLI.

The Bayeye harpoon the Hippopotamus.—The Harpoon described.—How the Chase of the Hippopotamus is conducted by the Bayeye.—How it was conducted by the ancient Egyptians.—The Spear used by them.—Ferocity of the Hippopotamus.—Killed by Guns.—Frightful Accident.—The Downfall 495

CHAPTER XLII.

Return to the Lake.—The Author starts for Namaqua-land to procure Wagons.—Night Adventure with a Lion.—Death of the Beast.—Sufferings of the Author 506″

• eBook Andersson, Charles John (1856): “Lake Ngami; or, Explorations and Discoveries, during Four Years Wanderings in the Wilds of South Western Africa” (last checked in January 2026).